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Wednesday 29 June 2011

Derby and the West Kimberley


Geicke Gorge
Having left Turkey Creek we travelled down the Northern Highway and stopped for lunch at Halls Creek. Intended to stay here but decided differently when we saw the park. Instead we did some shopping, got fuel and continued on. Finally stopped at a rest area called Mary Pool on the Mary River. Fascinating place with at least 60 vans and tents there.The free rest areas in WA are terrific

Sandstone Cliffs on Geikie Gorge
Continued on the next day to Fitzroy Crossing and stayed in a nice park called Fitzroy Crossing Lodge. In the afternoon we took a boat cruise on the Geikie Gorge. Plenty of fresh water crocs on the banks and birds in the trees. The crocs were so tired from sunbaking all day they could hardly move!


Serene Waters of Geikie Gorge

Geikie Gorge was created when the Fitzroy River eroded a deep, narrow passage into the limestone. The water is 30 meters deep at this time of year. The multi-colored walls and cliffs are what is left over from ancient barrier reefs. These barrier reefs existed during the Devonian period millions of years ago, and layers of fossils are visible in the limestone. During the wet season the Fitzroy River floods, and water covers the entire park. The flood waters have been up to 16 metres high and have bleached the bottom layer of the Gorge's walls a bright white. The hut where we bought our ticket was under water (over the 5 metre roof) in the March flood this year!


Geikie Gorge - Magnificent Sight at Sunset
Geikie Gorge is an important Aboriginal cultural area and is known by the Bunaba people as Darngku. Although named after Sir Archibald Geikie in 1883,  I guess it won't be long before it has an aboriginal name. The Bunaba people are the traditional owners but the park is administered by the WA Dept of Env & Consv (DEC)

Entrance to Tunnel Creek
Stayed at the Kimberley Entrance Park in Derby and drove the next day into the Tunnel Creek and Windjana National Parks. This was a drive of about 380km round trip which we did in the one day. Tunnel Creek National Park is WA's oldest cave system and part of the same ancient Devonian reef system as Windjana Gorge. 


Diane Inside Tunnel Creek Cave
The cave has been carved by the waters of Tunnel Creek flowing beneath the Napier Range.You can walk 750 metres into the tunnel, wading waist-deep through freshwater pools.








Tunnel Creek Cave








Wading Through the Cave Water






The cave features many beautiful formations, including stalactites and stalagmites, and is also home to a variety of bats, olive pythons and freshwater crocodiles - so we were told but we didn't see any animals! The photos don't show it but it was very dark in most parts of the cave and we had flashlights and a headlight  to see our way through. The water was cool but not too cold and at the end we waded through waist deep water.


The Exit of Tunnel Creek from the Cave
It was very pleasant to see the exit of the creek - peaceful and serene. At the entry, the walls of the Napier Range are towering above you and you have to climb over and squeeze between big boulders to get into the cave. Walking the creek was quite an experience - it took us about an hour and a half in total and the wearing of old sneakers was essential as we were walking across many rocks on the creek bottom.
Apparently Tunnel Creek National Park, is famous as it was used as a hideout late in the 1800's by a rebel Aboriginal leader known as Jandamarra. He was killed outside its entrance in 1897.

Windjana Gorge (Complete with Freshwater Croc)

We did not realize how magnificent Windjana Gorge is until we got there. Although much smaller, it rivals the gorge at Katherine for beauty. It's also one of the best places to see freshwater crocs in the wild. We saw about 12 in the short time we were there. They were just lazing on the river banks oblivious to the tourists. Windjana Gorge National Park is part of a 375 million-year-old Devonian reef system. Carved out by the Lennard River, the gorge is over three kilometres long with 300 metre-high walls.


Freshwater Croc up Close
 This crocodile was a reasonable size for freshies (about 3 metres long). This one, along with all the others was very quiet, just lazing in the sun and we were able to get quite close - always on the alert, though!


Windjana Gorge in June

Beautiful Windjana Gorge

 At the base of the gorge, there are deep freshwater pools surrounded by native fig, cadjeput and liechardt trees which attract flocks of  corellas, fruit bats and of course, fresh water crocodiles. The area is of great cultural importance to the local Bunuba people who once lived there.


The Prison Boab Tree at Derby
This massive ancient Boab Tree is believed to be around 1,500 years old which makes it the oldest living thing in Australia. It sits on the outskirts of  Derby in the West Kimberley region. The tree is an incredible 14 metres in circumference. With its hollow centre and hole cut into its side for a door, this Boab Tree was once used as a prison by early police patrols in the 1880's as a staging point for prisoners being walked to Derby. Another prison boab tree of similar age and size is located near Wyndham.


World's Longest Cattle Trough
Near the Prison Boab Tree is this cattle trough. Not just any cattle trough but the longest one in the world! It is still in use, is 120m long and can water up to 500 bullocks at the same time. Pretty impressive eh?  It has a constant feed from a nearby windmill operated bore pump.

Finally we left the Kimberleys and headed for Broome and a restful few days by the sea.

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